A term in Chennai: a walk round the Madras Club

12/3/2017

Up very early this morning for a walk round the old Madras Club - and then by chance, a visit to the new Madras Club (which is older than the old one). Confused? Read on - I'll explain.

The heritage walk - which included an excellent breakfast - was conducted by Sriram V, whose expertise on Madras/Chennai's history is matched by his enthusiasm. It took us round the original twenty acre site of the Madras Club, founded in 1832 as a men-only Europeans-only club and the oldest in India after Calcutta's Bengal Club.

The club has long gone from this city centre site, which is now occupied by the vast Express Avenue shopping mall. Only the faintest traces survive. On independence in 1947, when it became clear that many of the club's members were leaving India never to return, the club sold the site to R.N. Goenka, also owner of the Indian Express, and moved to (slightly) more modest premises.

This laundry facing the site of the club - and set up to serve its members - is one of the few institutions left which bear witness to what was known as the 'Ace of Clubs'. The British Library has some photos of the club from 1901-02 which give some idea of its grandeur.

These magnificent colonnaded pavilions have gone, but the Madras Club goes on - and very much in the old style. In the early 1960s, it merged with a similar institution, the Adyar Club - this was when Indians became eligible for full membership for the first time - and is housed in premises every bit as magnificent as the original buildings.

Indeed, the club's new premises are older than the old ones. The building is known as Mowbray's Cupola and was built in around 1792 by George Mowbray, an English trader who was variously sheriff and mayor of Madras. It's overlooking the Adyar river and in nine acres of grounds.

The Club boasts everything you could want from such an institution: bar, billiard room, ball room, barbers, bakery, pool, tennis court, library, restaurants, verandah - and, of course, a cupola.

28 Comments

Paul Billington

6/9/2018 21:22:09

Hi, I lived in Madras in the late 60's, my Father worked for Amoco, they built a fertilizer plant, Madras Fetrilizers Ltd, it's still operating. We were on Satyanarayana Ave, not to far from the grounds.. As part of a deal to allow Amoco expats to join the club, Amoco built their pool. I have many fond memories enjoying the pool with my friends, learning to play tennis, watching the weekly movie on the veranda and getting walloped by my dad playing billiards. The weekly curry lunch was a formal affair. Mulligatawny soup originated at the club.I could o on and on.

I know the club is private, is it easy to be able to tour thr grounds as a non-member?

Raju

13/3/2019 20:05:32

Hi paul. Where in Sathyanarayana avenue did you stay?

I have just rented a bungalow (inset house, old no.10) on Sathyanarayana avenue. Due to the coincidence that I found your comment from the expansiveness of the internet, I have a feeling this might be the same place you stayed.

Dianne Billington

29/4/2019 07:56:04

Hi Raju
I am Paul's sister. We lived at #14 Satayanarayana. Ill be visiting Chennai either later this year or early 2020. I'm hoping to take the walking tour of the Madras Club and wander around the neighbourhood. So many fond memories!

Mandy Griffiths

26/9/2018 08:28:56

Hi Paul
We were there in the late 60´s too my father Clive Griffiths worked for Dunlop - in the 80´s my father had a conference there and my mother and I joined him and visited the madras club, we just turned up and explained the situation and were let in. It was amazing to go back as Madras had changed but the club hadn’t. My daughter Ill be there in a few weeks and Ill hopefully visit there too.
Good luck
Mandy

Simon Drimer

13/1/2019 16:04:07

Hello there Mandy and greetings from the Drimers ...I remember you and your brother. My sisters (Melanie, Helen and Karen) are all in Australia, and I'm in between places. Went and stayed at the Club on my honeymoon in '85, and noticed the Times had been replaced by the Hindu on the newspaper stands, haha. Drop me a line - my full name at gmail dot com.

14/1/2019 09:22:34

'95 I meant. Harry Miller still wandering around in a cloud of cigar smoke

Prasad.M.V.K.

16/5/2020 08:38:28

Hi Mr.Drimer. Greetings. Could you please share a photograph of the club taken during '85 or before, if you have one. Thanks.
Prasad, Chennai. My mobile no. 9710966677

Nisha Top-Teagarden

8/1/2021 11:53:14

Hi Simon,

I remember your mother very well. She was headmistress at Harrington House School. I was chosen to make the farewell speech, when she left. I still have a picture that my father took, of all us kids standing on the stage set up for her farewell. Do mail me. My id is my full name @yahoo.com.

Diane link

28/11/2018 20:14:47

I lived in Madras for many years. I attended Kodaikanal International school and University of Art in Madras. I spent a lot of time at the club swimming and going to movie nights and costume parties. Many Sundays we had breakfast out there. I loved the club and am so glad its still there. I lived in India from 1970 to 1976. My father worked at the American Consulate. I loved sitting out on the lawns, sipping lemonade and watching huge groups of macaws and green parrots fly from tree to tree.

Tom Hughes

14/12/2019 19:03:55

Does Sriram V still give tours of "old" Madras? if so, how can he be contacted. Thank you.

Ramesh

8/1/2020 04:34:20

Have been a member since the late 60's and still use the club every day ! Knew Clive Griffiths and many others very well. Feel free to contact me for any details and I shall be happy to help. Ramesh

8/1/2020 11:15:40

How's it going Ramesh ? Pretty sure I remember you. You would have known my dad and mum, Morris/Rita Drimer I think. Rgds Simon

Ramesh Lulla

10/5/2021 07:01:51

Sorry about the very late response. Yes, I remember them all very well, Simon. Still visit the club every single day! Have a lockdown at the moment, so, looks sad and unused, but hope to be back in a few weeks. You can update your info on the last 50 years by reading an online version of my book. Link is:
https://online.fliphtml5.com/mwvoa/dwlg/#p=1

Take care. Ramesh

13/1/2020 22:18:23

Hi. I'm Harry Miller's daughter, Nisha. My father died in 1998. Most of you who were members of the Madras Club would have known us. I live in Anna Nagar these days, as our beautiful house, "The Frogs" was sold. Do get in touch with me. My email id is my full name @ yahoo dot com. Would love to hear from any of you.

Melanie Venning

8/1/2021 01:22:59

Hi Nisha, I was just telling my grand daughter (funnily enough her name is India) of the fond memories I have of your dad from our late 60s and 70s years at the Madras Club! It made me google the Club and there these comments were, bringing back such great memories

8/1/2021 11:22:58

Hi Melanie,

So nice to hear that your grandaughter's name is India. Glad to hear that you remember my father, too. Do mail me. My mail id is full name @yahoo.com. Very interesting to see everyone's memories of the Club and my father!

16/5/2020 14:29:27

Of course I remember Rita and Morris. And, Nisha, nice to hear you are doing well. I have quite a collection of pictures of Clive, Harry and of the old days in the club and will be happy to share them with anyone who would like them. My email ID is [email protected].

16/5/2020 15:58:13

Hi Ramesh
Would you remember my father, Harry Billington? He used to look after the swimming pool at the club when we lived in Madras. Nisha and I are in close touch.
Dianne

Lulla Ramesh

16/5/2020 16:50:48

Yes, I do remember him. I was a member of the Club Committee from 1982, so did meet him often. Ramesh

Richard Trimbee

28/5/2020 13:11:27

How good to see all these reminiscences from so long ago. We stayed at the Club several times in recent years ( facilitated by Mr Lulla) and have always been made very welcome and enjoyed excellent service from all we met. Breakfast on the front terrace was always a great start to the day.
We lived in Madras ( Wallace Gardens) 1966/68 and fondly recall all the special events, Sunday evening cinema in full black tie on the verandah and the keenly awaited arrival of the airmail copy of the Daily Telegraph ( Thursday edition) posted in the hall. A very happy time.

28/5/2020 13:31:01

Remember finger chips and fresh lime juice? Yum!

21/8/2020 05:16:25

Have just completed my Book on the Club and you are welcome to the Ebook version, if you send me your emaiID at [email protected]

Bob McKerrow

30/9/2020 23:58:42

Hello Ramesh. I was a member in 1980 and 91 when I was working for the International Red Cross. How does one get a copy of your book.

With fond memories

Bob McKerrw

1/10/2020 05:42:49

Recall meeting you, Bob. If you are in town, would be happy to share a copy with you, but, am happy to share the Ebook link with any of you who might be interested. Or your Email ID please and I shall forward to you. Regards, Ramesh
The Book link is, https://online.fliphtml5.com/mwvoa/dwlg/

Brian Hamilton

1/11/2020 20:46:25

In the mid 1950s, My mother, Evie, and father Lt Col Jack Hamilton, a medical Doctor, were members. Both Irish. I was fortunate to be brought there for the summer. Later, in 2009, I led a cricket team on tour and some of us stayed there a few nights. Wonderful memories.

Ramesh Lulla link

10/5/2021 06:54:20

Yes, I remember Col Hamilton very well, both my Son’s being delivered at The Lady Willingdon, under his care! Fine man. Have been a member for 51 years, so knew most of the members then.

Jane Happell

26/11/2020 21:45:47

My father in law Sir Alexander Happell(inspector general of police southern India) lived in Madras for most of his adult life and the “club” was a large part of his life. My husband was born in Australia but his brother is 88 and remembers Madras where he lived as a child. Our women’s club in Melbourne might like a reciprocal club in Madras. Would the M Club be suitable still?

John Bryson

8/11/2021 03:10:52

I was born in 1946 at The Lady Willingdon and stayed 'til I was eight having gone to The Convent College in Kodai. I returned from the UK for a couple of summer school holidays until my father Bill Bryson (not the author) retired in1961. He was a member of the Madras Club, The RMYC and Boat Club

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