 It's taken six years, cost a small fortune and been beset by controversy - but the refurbishment of Hornsey's fabulous Town Hall is at last complete. Just in time for Christmas. The building celebrated its reopening over the weekend with a community fair, an art exhibition, foodstalls and several competing groups of carol singers. And I have to say, the old place has polished up well!
Part of the town hall complex (which is in Crouch End) is to be a hotel, and quite a lot has been turned into up-market flats. But there are still wonderful spaces, including the main hall (where the Kinks among others started out), the council chamber (complete with mayor's chair) and the members' room.    Hornsey Town Hall is acclaimed as a modernist masterpiece. It was designed by a young New Zealand architect, Reginald Uren, and opened in 1935. The building won the Royal Institute of British Architects' bronze medal in that year. But after just thirty years as the focal point for the Borough of Hornsey, in 1965 it lost its purpose. Hornsey was merged with Wood Green and Tottenham to form the London Borough of Haringey. The centre of gravity of the new borough was further east. The building was still used as municipal offices, and the main hall was kept busy, but a slow process of decline set in.  The refurbishment has done justice to the design - the windows, the staircases, the angular aspect, all comes shining through. 
 What remains unclear is the extent to which the restored building will serve Crouch End and become once again a focus for the local community. But it's certainly got off to a good start. 
0 Comments
 Crouch End is not, I suspect, a crime hotspot. So the act of vandalism to the wonderful fountain outside Hornsey Library perhaps ranks higher than you might imagine in the priorities of the local police.  A police sign urges locals to be vigilant for other anti-social acts after an incident in which - wait for it - washing-up liquid was added to the fountain without authorisation. Some in N8, it seems, are foaming with rage. (Other puns are available ...) I was much too late at the scene to capture a shot of the sud-covered 'reclining female figure' at the centre of the fountain. A pity! I like the scu;lpture. It's the work of T.B. Huxley-Jones and recently celebrated its 60th birthday. Hornsey Library, a magnificent building, was opened in March 1965, just days before the Borough of Hornsey sank beneath the waves to become a reluctant part of the new Borough of Haringey.  The fountain and sculpture were installed at the same time - close to the municipal toilets. Both library and fountain have recently been refurbished, and now look altogether more elegant.
It looks to me that the 'reclining female figure' - the sculpture doesn't have any other name - has cleaned up quite nicely. So, please, hold the Fairy Liquid!
 The Great Northern Railway Tavern is the best of Hornsey's boozers. And it has some stunning glass - in the Art Nouveau style that is also on disp;ay at its nearby cousin. the Queen's in Crouch End.  As you can see, it;s glorious and mischievous. The pub was built at the very close of the nineteenth century, and it is now listed.  If you ever need an excuse to pip in for a pint - and during the hours of sunlight of course when the glass can be seen to best effect - here it is!
  George Jones has a footnote in history - the only Communist to get more than 10,000 votes in a Parliamentary election for an English constituency when facing Labour opposition. No, he didn't win; indeed, he came third. I've blogged about him before. This election leaflet is from fourteen years later - when he stood again for Hornsey in north London as the Communist candidate. It's part of an assortment of Jones election literature that has come my way. The interesting thing about this leaflet is, as you will have noticed, it's in Greek. Here's my short article published in the latest Hornsey Historical Society Newsletter which provides the context.    For a twentieth century suburban church, this is stylish. It's the Moravian church in Hornsey which is at the foot of Muswell Hill. I've blogged about it before - but now I've managed to set foot in it, or at least in the church hall at the back. The church opened in 1908 - and the HQ of the British province of the Moravian church is nearby (in a much older building, though it was the thriving Hornsey congregation that prompted the church to relocate its admin building to this corner of London after the Second World War). There's more about the history of the church and congregation here.  The church hall is huge - with comfortable sitting room for 150. The photo above is from the past week when I addressed the Crouch End district of the U3A about my book on the Siege of Sidney Street. What a turn-out! Next door, a mother and tooder group was meeting. Elsewhere, a nursery school was in full flow. I didn't manage to get into the church itself - this photo is from the Moravians' website and shows the church as it was being restored after a nasty fire in 2019.  Almost 120 years after the church was built, it seems to be doing well. In N8, the Lamb of God marches on!   Not one of the oldest churches in and around Hornsey - not one of the biggest - not one of the prettiest ... but there is a charm about Hornsey Moravian Church, don't you think? The building dates back to 1908, and according to Pevsner it is 'distinguished by an attractive octagonal corner turret with a spire'. And this is certainly the stand-out aspect of the architecture.
The Moravians are one of the oldest Protestant churches, dating back to the fifteenth century, and perhaps best known for their symbol of the Lamb of God. They are also one of the smaller churches with perhaps a million members worldwide, mainly in Africa, the Caribbean and Central America.  There are around 20,000 Moravians in Europe - and a thousand or more are in the UK in about thirty congregations (including the Chelsea church and burial ground which I have blogged about before).  The Hornsey church seems to house the headquarters of the church in Britain. The Hornsey Moravians have a good website, and have posted online a comprehensive history of their church, from which this photograph of its opening in 1908 is taken: The Moravian Messenger reported the plans for the construction of the church as follows: 'Various sites in North London suburbs were examined by the Committee, and it was decided to recommend a plot of ground on Priory Road, Hornsey, at the foot of Muswell Hill. ... The district is a new one, few of the houses in it being more than ten years old. While to all intents and purposes the site is on the main road, it is separated from it by a public garden which runs along the Priory Road to Hornsey. This ensures a certain amount of privacy, and will also prevent the noise of the electric cars causing annoyance during services. ... Ours will be the first Free Church in the field. Trams to various parts pass the site, and several G.N.R. Stations are within a short distance. The people belong almost entirely to the middle class and the wish, so often expressed, that efforts be made to reach the middle classes, will have a chance of fulfilment.'  I feel an affinity with the Moravians because I am part of the 0.01% of the population - actually, that's probably on the high side - that went to a Moravian primary school ... at Fulneck outside Pudsey in West Yorkshire. A beautiful spot with wonderful eighteenth century architecture. My parents weren't Moravians (indeed they were, if anything, lapsed Baptists) - but they preferred me going to fee-paying Fulneck rather than the village primary.
So although I'm a non-believer, I'm pleased there is a flourishing Moravian church just down the road.  This small building stands aloof adjoining the Sainsbury's car park just off Hornsey High Street. I suppose we should be grateful it has survived at all. But what was it? I'm not at all sure. A watch room? The lobby to a larger building? You can see the coat of arms. These were the arms of the Borough of Hornsey granted in 1904 - two oak trees representing the woods which once extended across the area, and crossed swords borrowed from the arms of the Diocese of London. The Latin motto translates as; 'the better prepared, the stronger'.  The borough disappeared in 1965, amalgamated into the new London Borough of Haringey - one of the more unfortunate names bestowed on the new outer London boroughs. If you want to get a sense of the area the borough covered - though beware, the boundaries did change from time-to-time - this map will help:  This was taken from an early municipal publication, Healthy Hornsey. The area prided itself on being part of the northern heights of London and so healthier than the lower-lying (and poorer and more crowded) area to its south. As you can see, the coat of arms features in this publication -  The coat of arms also appears on the plaque on the side of Hornsey Library - the last building to be commissioned by Hornsey Borough before it disappeared beneath the waves of municipal progress. The plaque is in the shape of the old borough, which is a nice design touch.  But that brings me back to where I started. What was that building in Sainsbury's car park?
 This splendid Tudor baptismal font adorns a suburban parish church barely sixty years old - the rather attractive St Mary's with St George's on Cranley Gardens in Hornsey at the foot of Muswell Hill. The font was originally at St Mary's on Hornsey High Street and is of much the same antiquity as the tower, the only part of the old church still standing. It later moved to St George's in Hornsey - which suffered a direct bombing hit during the war - and was rescued from the rubble to find, eventually, a new home on Cranley Gardens.  Its current home is an elegant modern church, which was built next door to the older parish hall of St George's. The whalebone shape, modern stained glass and lighting are rather fetching. Have a look -
 So the church is, to use a riff on the title of that revered hymn book, a mix of ancient and modern.
Thanks to the Open House weekend - and the even more admirable volunteers of the Friends of Hornsey Church Tower - I have achieved a longstanding ambition. I've been to the top of St Mary's church tower in Hornsey. The tower - fifteenth century in part - has outlived a whole succession of adjoining churches, and now stands alone and aloof with its trademark turret and crenellations.  The vestry has been restored and is in wonderful condition. Religious services are held here a few times a year (this is no longer Hornsey's parish church but it's still owned by the church) - otherwise it's available for hire, an 'intimate space' for performance or kids' parties, with room for about twenty-five. But this isn't the way up the tower. That's through a recessed side door, and a perilous spiral staircase with 120 narrow steps. That leads first to the bell ringers' chamber (though the bells have long gone) and then beyond, past the deserted bell chamber, to the larger-than-you might-expect roof.
From the top you have a commanding view of Muswell Hill, Alexandra Palace, White Hart Lane, Crouch End's "hog's back" and beyond t0 the skyscrapers of the City and Canary Wharf. I took this short video - starting off facing, very roughly, south and then moving clockwise: And here's a selection of views from the top of St Mary's tower:  Looking south on the skyscrapers of central London  Towards Muswell Hill  North-east across the New River development and beyond  Turnpike Lane to the east and beyond it Spurs' new ground at White Hart Lane  Crouch End  Alexandra Palace Next time Open House weekend comes around, head straight to Hornsey!   UPDATED; I HAVE ADDED AT THE FOOt OF THIS BLOG A SUBSTANTIAL ARTICLE THAT I HAVE WRITTEN ABOUT JONAH JONES AND THE 1945 ELECTION IN HORNSEY PUBLISHED IN 2021 IN THE ANNUAL BULLETIN OF THE HORNSEY HISTORICAL SOCIETY A Communist who made his mark in London's Conservative-voting suburbs ... George J. Jones, universally known as 'Jonah' Jones, made electoral history in the 1945 general election. He was the only Communist candidate in England to get more than 10,000 votes in that election, which proved to be the high water mark of the CP's electoral fortunes. Did Jones win and take his seat as Hornsey's Communist MP? No, he came third - even though he got almost double the tally of Phil Piratin, the victorious CP candidate in Mile End and Stepney. (Of other Communist candidates, Willie Gallacher won, indeed was re-elected, in West Fife; the party leader Harry Pollitt was a close second in Rhondda East).  10,000+ votes for a Communist in Tory Hornsey was quite an achievement - yet Jones's name is little known among even the most socialist-minded of the area's current residents, and he doesn't feature at all in the British Communist Hall (alright, Ante-room) of Fame. So let's try to make amends - The Borough of Hornsey (I'm not absolutely sure whether the Parliamentary constituency covered the same area) was established in 1903, bringing together the leafy suburbs of Muswell Hill and the eastern part of Highgate, the more proletarian areas of Harringay, Hornsey Vale and Stroud Green and, in between (both socially and geographically), Crouch End and Hornsey. The CP established a presence across the borough - bookish and intellectual in the north and west of the borough, more industrial (and militant) as you come down from the commanding heights. In 1945, even though the CP was much bigger and more influential than it had been at any previous general election, Communists only contested 21 seats - and just five of those were in London. It decided well ahead of time that Hornsey would be a target seat - even though Hornsey Borough had no CP councillors (Jones, apparently, once came within 200 votes of winning in South Harringay).  In George Jones, the CP believed it had a candidate who could do well. The Jones for Hornsey pamphlet, put out a few months before the 1945 election and written by a fellow Hornsey CP'er, is both a potted biography, and an attempt to assemble a local left alliance to support his candidacy. Jones was a teacher in a school in Hoxton; he lived with his wife and young daughter on Weston Park, close to the centre of Crouch End. He had been a member of the ILP in Wood Green until that branch defected en masse to the CP. Jonah was clearly a good looking guy, and gained a local standing for his oratory at a protest meeting at Crouch End clocktower as Mosley addressed his followers inside nearby Hornsey Town Hall. The local CP published a newsletter, Hornsey Forward - there's a single copy in the British Library - and this too was used to promote 'Jonah' Jones and his candidacy.
The local party had its own premises, at 4a Broadway Parade just a few yards from the clocktower, above what is now a newsagents. Michael Prior's parents were members of the Hornsey CP and he recalls this fairly spacious flat-cum-office. Access was from a service road at the rear up outside steps. On the first-floor there were three or four small rooms, used as offices and for small meetings; above was a flat used by a party full-timer and his family.  Jones himself emphasised the need for unity against the Conservatives. He declared: 'Here in Hornsey we need a platform of the whole of the Left - Labour, Liberal, Co-operative, Commonwealth, Trades Council and Trade Unions - to ensure the defeat of Tory domination.' It was Popular Front-style politics ... but it didn't quite come off. According to the communists, the local Labour party was minded to support Jones, but was over-ruled by party HQ. The Labour candidate, Bill Fiske - later a leader of the Greater London Council - beat Jones to second place, but the sitting Tory MP, Captain Gammans, won very comfortably, taking more than half the total vote. Jones's tally of 10,058 was by far the biggest ever poll by a Communist candidate in England in a seat also contested by Labour. The only Communist to do better was Shapurji Saklatvala, who contested North Battersea in five consecutive general elections from 1922 to 1931. On two occasions, 1922 and 1924, he won - and in the latter contest he polled more than 15,000 votes. But when in 1929 and 1931 he faced Labour opposition, his vote crumbled.  'Jonah' Jones contested Hornsey as a Communist on three further occasions - in 1950, 1951 and 1959 - but never came close to repeating his 1945 performance. In these later candidacies, he took about 2% of the vote. Hornsey (recast as Hornsey and Wood Green from 1983) remained a Conservative seat until as late as 1992. Labour's hold since then has been insecure - the constituency was captured by the Lib Dems in 2005 and 2010. It's currently one of the safest Labour seats in the country - Catherine West has a majority of more than 30,000. As for Jones, I believe he may have died not long after his last candidacy - if anyone knows more about his life and political activity, do drop me a line. UPDATE: FROM THE 2021 HORNSEY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 'BULLETIN'        |
Andrew Whitehead's blogWelcome - read - comment - throw stones - pick up threads - and tell me how to do this better! Archives
December 2025
Categories
All
|
RSS Feed