What a delightful surprise Riga proved to be. It's a capital city of 600,000 - that's almost a third of the total population of Latvia, a Baltic state which gained its independence (again) in 1991 after the collapse of the Soviet Union. It has some startling Art Nouveau architecture in the new town - Doesn't that guy in the Egyptian headgear look just a little like Tommy Cooper? And walking the streets - although often windy and a little parky - is a constant surpise and delight. But the old city on the banks of the Daugava is Riga's real gem. Interspersed among towering Lutheran, Catholic and Orthodox churches are some remnants of the Soviet era. On the riverbank there's a powerful monument erected in 1959 to the hundreds killed in Latvia's Bloody Sunday in 1905. This came a few days after Bloody Sunday in St Petersburg, the massacre of demonstrators which sparked an attempt at revolution. In Riga, a huge anti-Tsar protest was also dispersed with violence - but most of the casualties came when the crowd tried to escape across the frozen river and many died of drowning and exposure when the ice cracked and the freezing water swallowed them. Nearby on Town Hall Square is a solid red granite monument to the Latvian riflemen of the First World War era, who fought first for and then against the Tsar. Alongside is the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, telling the story of the three occupations the country suffered during the Second World War: by the Soviet Union; by Nazi Gemany; and then by Moscow again. What was once Lenin Street is now Brivibas (Freedom) Boulevard The commanding Freedom Monument was first unveiled in 1935, when Latvia was an independent nation. The statue on top is of Mother Latvia. Laying flowers here during the Soviet era could be punished by deportation to Siberia. For a city which was nominally atheist for several decades, there are an awful lot of stylish churches (and a synagogue). The city skyline is marked by some spectacular church towers. This gold cupola adorns the Orthodox cathedral of the Nativity of Christ. Lutheranism is the biggest denomination. But a quarter of Latvia's population are ethnic Russians, and Russian is widely spoken. It's fun walking round the old city - eating cheap local cuisine at the Lidos - trying the excellent locally brewed beer - and above all, enjoying the cityscape and the architecture. Latvia is now part of the European Union. One unintended consequence is a steady drift of the young to more prosperous parts of the EU. The country's population is declining.
And of course being a small Baltic nation bordering on Putin's Russia isn't always a comfortable existence.
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This is an extraordinary chapel - a former convent chapel - which is both sumptuous in design, and an extraordinary statement about women and their religious role. All the attendant saints depicted at Christ's crucifixion are women. So too are most of the saints celebrated in the stained glass. And this was back in the 1860s! This is All Saints Chapel on the south side of Margaret Street, near Oxford Street, and just opposite the imposingly high church All Saints church. The chapel and convent were the home of an Anglican order of women religious, the All Saints Sisters of the Poor. I knew nothing of this chapel, but discovered it because the chapel is currently hosting an exhibition of works by Louise Bourgeois and others: the altar piece, so to speak, is hers, 'Brother and Sister'; so too is the soap stone style sculpture, 'Woman with a Secret'. But it's the chapel itself which is the star. The wall painting of the crucifixion was the work of John Richard Clayton. Just as exceptional is the stained glass. Take a look: Quite a congregation - is that the collective noun? - of women saints! And other details of the church are wonderful too. The sisters left some time back. Much of the building is now, apparently, serviced apartments; the chapel is used occasionally, as now, as a public exhibition space.
It's amazing what you can find behind a very ordinary looking door in central London! I'm posting this leaflet because a friend recently tried to find a copy online and couldn't. So here it is! The British Withdrawal from Northern Ireland Campaign was established in 1973, largely by pacifists. It was much less stridently republican than the larger Troops Out Movement. Fourteen activists - the BWNIC 14 - were prosecuted for 'conspiracy to incite disaffection' for publishing this leaflet. In 1975, after an eleven week trial, they were acquitted, Ross Bradshaw has written about BWNIC here. I suspect this leaflet was not an original issue, but republished during the BWNIC 14 campaign. And 'Some Information for Disaffected Soldiers' was itself a revised, and more carefully worded, version of a leaflet for which the peace campagner Pat Arrowsmith had been convicted and jailed. And who were the BWNIC 14? Well, in alphabetical order: Albert Beale (journalist, London); Wendy Butlin (secretary, London); Phil Cadbury (student, London); Bill Hetherington (social worker, Walsall); Juliette Hornsby (secretary, Chelsea); John Hyatt (journalist, Nottingham); Frank Keeley (unemployed, Liverpool); Ronnie Lee (soliticor’s clerk, Luton); Chris Roper (aeronautical engineer, Essex); Paul Steed (student, London); Bob Thomas (factory worker, Cardiff); Rick Walker (unemployed, Liverpool); Mike Wescott (make-up artist, Birmingham); Gwyn Williams (social worker, London). And here they are! Isn't this wonderful! A postcard sent from Mafeking in August 1897 to Major F.D. Lugard in Ngamiland.
Major F.D. Lugard is Frederick Dealtry Lugard, born in India and later in life the Governor of Hong Kong and the first Governor-General of Nigeria. He was a pioneer of indirect rule, of using traditional forms of hierarchy, deference and governance to administer the colonies. He became Lord Lugard in 1928. And N'gamiland? Well, in 1896-7, Lugard led an expedition to Lake Ngami in modern-day Botswana, just to the north of the Kalahari desert, on behalf of the British West Charterland Company. At about the time this card was despatched, he was recalled and sent to West Africa. Perhaps that's why this postcard is knocking around. Perhaps it never reached Lugard and someone else pocketed it as a souvenir. This was part of my happy haul at Much Binding in Cromer the other day. This is Andy Slovak in his Aladdin's cave of a bookshop - praise (from me) doesn't come much higher than that - in the Norfolk seaside town of Cromer. Much Binding (that's what the bookshop was called - a riff on the venerated radio comedy 'Much Binding in the Marsh') has, sadly, closed for good. But Andy very kindly allowed me in yesterday to have a last, lingering browse of his shelves and boxes. It was my third and final visit to Much Binding - I blogged about my last visit four years ago. Much joy was had. And a fair bit of dosh spent. Andy's shop was unusual in stocking quite a lot of odd copies of left and radical papers and journals. Just up my street! I was delighted to find a few copies of the Black Power paper The Hustler, published in Notting Hill from 1968. Black Dwarf was perhaps the best political paper of that era, and some of the covers featured striking drawings by the rapier-like Ralph Steadman - recognise Harold Wilson here? Tariq Ali and other IMGers on Black Dwarf broke away to set up Red Mole, not as good a paper but again the iconography is interesting: And who wouldn't love a copy of the International Times with the Furry Freak Brothers on the cover (this is from 1970): Andy also had some runs of old anarchist papers in French and Spanish - I picked up a couple of copies of an Argentine anarchist publication from the 1920s: And yes, I did buy a fair few pamphlets and handbills too. That's for another blog. In the shop window, something quite remarkable ... and beautiful,. A hand-painted Bengali election banner. (No I didn't buy it!)
Amazing what you could come across at Much Binding by the Sea! What a band! Senegal's Orchestra Baobab have been going for almost as long as the Rolling Stones. And like the Stones, they still deliver! I caught up with Orchestra Baobab last night at one of London's loveliest music venues, the Union Chapel (sometimes known as the Congregational cathedral) in Islington. Most of the audience were the same vintage as the band - but they were up and grooving. Just a pity, on such a sweltering evening, that the chapel has no air conditioning. And yes, they played 'Utrus Horas', the opening track from their classic album, Pirate's' Choice: And here's Orchestra Baobab playing the same track more than forty years back: A wonderful evening with a band which has real energy as well as talent and such a great act to see live..
You can see where I've been this week. In the footsteps - well, the paw steps - of the country's most famous cat. Larry was selected to be the Downing Street Cat from a shortlist of three inmates of the Battersea Dogs & Cats Home. Although he now has the title 'chief mouser', he was chosen not because he showed any aptitude for catching mice but because he was good with people. You can imagine the scene if Larry had shown his claws to Gavin Williamson or snarled at Matt Hancock! My visit to Battersea was to make a donation. Not money, but a slice of history. Many year ago, I bought at an ephemera stall a fragile handbill from the 1860s soliciting support for a 'Temporary Home for Lost and Starving Dogs'. I was attracted to it because I live not far way from the onetime dogs' home in Holloway. But it turns out that in 1871, this dogs' home moved to Battersea and became ... yes, you've got it. Battersea's archivist explained that they have vanishingly little in their holdings about the home before it moved south of the river. Well, now they have this - And if you're curious what the dogs' home looked like in its Holloway incarnation, a drawing of it has survived: Wonderful! But you can sort of see why the neighbours were keen to wave the home goodbye. The handbill emphasises that it's for lost and stray dogs only, not for ancient or no-longer-wanted domestic pets ... Indeed, as you can see, it suggests that if your favourite pootch is getting a little long in the tooth, perhaps the kindest thing would be to put it down. Given the lack of veterinary care at the time, that's perhaps understandable ... but it's the exact opposite of Battersea's current approach. The home is happy to accept and rehouse unwanted pets, and says the cost of living crisis has sadly prompted more pet owners to wave a fond farewell to Rover or Mogs (the home's name was changed to include cats in 2002). And they only put down animals with very serious health problems or those dogs that are aggressive.to the point of being unhousable. The Battersea campus is ultra-modern - and indeed the oldest building there, dating from 1905, looks almost comically out of place amid the lines and curves of the new wings and the Battersea Power Station development beyond.
The home also makes use of a row of railway arches, a couple of which used to be the home of a small rail station (Battersea Park Road station, which opened in 1867 and closed in 1916). The station's splendid late Victorian decorated brick is worth a look. It's the iconography which makes old political papers, pamphlets and ephemera so interesting. The Church Socialist was not in the first rank of political journals. But what a charming cover design, which featured on every issue of this monthly, or bi-monthly, for several years. The Church Socialist was published from 1912 to 1921, the journal of the Church Socialist League. And the cover design? There's no acknowledgement and it's not signed - but am I imagining it, or is there a trace of Walter Crane in the composition? Many years ago, I bought a batch of the Church Socialist as part of an auction lot. I have a few to spare. If you would like one, let me know.
And if you can tell me who designed the cover, I'll add that information to this post, It's amazing what you can come across in a Muswell Hill curio shop. Immortalised in pottery are two of the presenters of Radio 4's Today programme. The items are dated 2005 and the figure on the right is clearly John Humphrys who presented the programme from 1987 to 2019. But the other guy? Not so easy to identify. Anyone like to offer a guess? Some clues - he's well known and still broadcasting, indeed I heard him on Radio 4 just the other day. The first to get the name right - it's stamped on the bottom so I know who it is supposed to be - will get their name in lights on this blog. *** UPDATE: TIM HOLMES, SIMON CROW, ABBAS NASIR AND IAIN PURDON WERE ALL EXCEPTIONALLY QUICK OFF THE MARK IN IDENTIFYING THE MYSTERY EGG HEAD AS JAMES NAUGHTIE *** And what are these pottery pieces? Well, Today is a breakfast programme - and what do Radio 4 listening Brits have for breakfast ...
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